SHERRY NGUYEN
Navy and white dobby cloth being woven on the loom.

WOVEN TEXTILES PROJECT_02

WEAVING LAB

Dobby Structures

WEAVE DRAFTING / 16-SHAFT DOBBY / TWILL / SATEEN / COMPOUND WEAVES

Six weave structures drafted on a sixteen-shaft grid, entered into an electronic dobby loom and woven as samples.

THE PROJECT

Weave graphs were drafted on a sixteen-shaft grid — chain plan, weave design and straight draw-in — then entered into an electronic dobby loom and woven as samples.

Each structure shows the woven cloth, its technical data and the draft it was woven from. The full lab sheet for each is one click away.

LOOM
ELECTRONIC DOBBY
SHAFTS
16
STRUCTURES
06

01 / WEAVE DRAFT → PHYSICAL CLOTH

Double diamond cloth: white weft floats tracing nested diamonds over navy warp.
CLOTH / 50 PPI / 16 SHAFTS

DOUBLE DIAMOND

TWILL DERIVATIVE

DENSITY
50 PPI
LOOM
16 SHAFTS / ELECTRONIC DOBBY
DRAW-IN
STRAIGHT

Point twill mirrored in both directions to form nested diamonds; white weft floats trace the lattice over navy warp.

Chain plan and weave design for the double diamond on a sixteen-shaft grid.
CHAIN PLAN + WEAVE DESIGN
FULL LAB SHEET
Diamond cross cloth: broken diamonds with a solid center cross.
CLOTH / 40 PPI / 16 SHAFTS

DIAMOND CROSS

TWILL DERIVATIVE

DENSITY
40 PPI
LOOM
16 SHAFTS / ELECTRONIC DOBBY
DRAW-IN
STRAIGHT

A broken diamond with a solid center cross; the lower pick density opens the structure and lets the weft dominate.

Chain plan and weave design for the diamond cross.
CHAIN PLAN + WEAVE DESIGN
FULL LAB SHEET
Basket weave variation cloth with an interrupted grid texture.
CLOTH / 50 PPI / 16 SHAFTS

BASKET WEAVE VARIATION

PLAIN WEAVE DERIVATIVE

DENSITY
50 PPI
LOOM
16 SHAFTS / ELECTRONIC DOBBY
DRAW-IN
STRAIGHT

Irregular basket grouping of warp and weft floats on a plain-weave ground, producing an interrupted grid texture.

Chain plan and weave design for the basket weave variation.
CHAIN PLAN + WEAVE DESIGN
FULL LAB SHEET
Sateen cloth with a smooth diagonal surface.
CLOTH / 60 PPI / 16 SHAFTS

16-SHAFT SATEEN

SATEEN DERIVATIVE / COUNTER 3

DENSITY
60 PPI
LOOM
16 SHAFTS / ELECTRONIC DOBBY
DRAW-IN
STRAIGHT

Weft-faced sateen with a counter of 3 across sixteen shafts; single interlacings scatter so the surface reads as a smooth diagonal.

Chain plan and weave design for the sixteen-shaft sateen, counter of 3.
CHAIN PLAN + WEAVE DESIGN
FULL LAB SHEET
Filling-backed cloth in a neutral tone.
CLOTH / 100 PPI / 16 SHAFTS

FILLING-BACKED WEAVE

COMPOUND / FILLING 1F / 1B

DENSITY
100 PPI
LOOM
16 SHAFTS / ELECTRONIC DOBBY
DRAW-IN
STRAIGHT

Face and back wefts alternate 1F, 1B — a twill face over a sateen back, adding weight without changing the face.

Face weave, back weave, chain plan and weave design for the filling-backed weave.
FACE + BACK WEAVE / CHAIN PLAN / WEAVE DESIGN
FULL LAB SHEET
Stitched double cloth in deep red and white.
CLOTH / 100 PPI / 16 SHAFTS

STITCHED DOUBLE CLOTH

COMPOUND / 1F / 1B WARP & WEFT

DENSITY
100 PPI
LOOM
16 SHAFTS / ELECTRONIC DOBBY
DRAW-IN
STRAIGHT

Two plain-weave cloths, 1F 1B in both warp and weft, stitched at marked points so the layers hold together as one fabric.

Face weave, back weave, chain plan and weave design for the stitched double cloth.
FACE + BACK WEAVE / CHAIN PLAN / WEAVE DESIGN
FULL LAB SHEET
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HOMEINDEX — 10 PROJECTS / 3 DISCIPLINES

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